Shrek is love Shrek is life. it’s all ogre now

    (Source: kingofredlyons, via mondo-s)

  1. niuniente:

    LOOK HOW HUGE MAKOTO GREW UP WITHIN A YEAR (HARUPAPA MUST BE PROUD)

    wtf he’s a giant

    (via magiprincekouen)

    ohana-means-famiree:

    jacks-twin:

    dreamcatcher-in-gold:

    that-lightning-gal:

    justateenagxdirtbag:

    shieldsarachnid:

    Mist Elephant…..WAT

    EARTH SHARK

    Wind mouse!

    {Mist owl oVo}

    Rain mouse

    Shadow turtle. So I’m dark and slow. Interesting.

    Wind turtle

    (Source: , via sarucheeko)

    officiallynotaconspiracy:

    I’m going to preface this with I am in no way an expert. This is actually my first build. I’m currently at the

    bondo/painting stages. Someone just suggested that making a tutorial is actually a great way to track progress

    and give back to the community. So here we go!



    Where I left you last time you just glued together a piece and determined that it fit. You might have even done a whole suit like that. Or just a few key pieces for now.

    What you need for this:

    1. Your previous pep (Hours and hours of hard work)

    2. (Aqua/polyurethane)Resin (30$)

    3. Fiberglass Mat or Cloth(10-15$)

    4. Acetone (20$)

    5. Chip brushes (usually 1$ each, I would suggest 10)

    6. A few small plastic Containers (usually about 2$ each, I suggest having 3)

    7. 100 pack of gloves (10$)

    8. Smock (5$?)

    9. Face Mask (3$)

    10. Shot Glass (1$ I’m classy I swear)

    This process takes forever, so honestly I would suggest having a few peps done before you start on it. Unless its your first test out.

    Step One: Set Up

    You’re gonna want your area all set up before you start this. Make sure you have a clean work area. I use a table. You’re gonna have your resin(Poly or Aqua doesn’t really matter), don’t open it yet. Now your shot glass goes right next to that. Put all of your brushes into the first container.

    In the next container you’re going to want to put in about 2 inches of acetone. Cover that acetone with the scrap fabric(it evaporates fast). This is where you’re going to put your brushes after you’re done using them. The acetone helps keep your brushes lasting longer. It prevents the resin from hardening too much and you can usually re-use the brush. It’s sometimes a little stiff, but still able to use.

    The final container is gonna be used for your resin when we finally get to that step.

    Put on your smock. Open up your gloves. Get them ready to change easily. Put on a pair of gloves. Now put on a face mask you’re working with dangerous chemicals.

    You’re all set up to get ready to work.

    Step 2: Resin

    Now that you’ve got the area set up, its time to get started.

    Read your resin container. It should tell you how much product to mix with what. Mine wants me to have 10 drops of the hardener for every ounce(hence the shot glass). So what I do is I measure out one shot of resin. Be careful. Then pour it into the container. Once the container has as much resin will fall, I put the ten drops in.

    I like to do only one or two ounces at a time depending on what I’m doing.  It hardens(cures) pretty fast. How to tell when it’s curing/hardening: You’ll see little bead like bubbles appear in it. This is when you know you should stop working with the product.



    Once you’ve got it mixed( I mix with the brush). “Paint” on a very thin layer of resin onto half of one of your pieces. If you still have more resin in your container keep doing half onto the rest of your pieces, until you have no more resin in that container.

    The reason why you do half of the piece is you don’t want the piece to collapse under the weight.

    Once you are done with your first batch put the brush into the acetone. Press down, smoosh it around, try to clean it up as best you can. Then let it rest there, and cover it up. Move the resined pieces to somewhere safe to cure. This process usually takes 4 hours. Give or take. I live in Florida, it’s hot. Different weather conditions have different effects on curing. Where I live it’s 4 hours. If this is your first time doing it, you might want to do it at night and let it cure overnight.

    If you’re just going to do another batch. You can keep your gloves on. If not I would suggest changing them(I have many pieces in many different stages so I usually change gloves).

    Step 3: Resin(B+C)

    B:

    Basicly everything you did above, do again. But now you’re doing the other half of the outside of the piece.

    C:

    Basicly everything you just did. Do it again. But this time you’re doing the inside of the piece.

    Some people like to do several layers of resin. I honestly think this is enough.

    Step 4: Fiberglass

    Now after everything is resined up. You should be able to notice your piece is a lot more sturdy than it was before. We’re gonna make it hard as a rock.

    Now this is a very crucial part to make sure you do right. You could essentially mess up your piece and have to start all over from here. You want to make sure that it ends up being exactly the shape you want/need(I’ll show you some of my mistakes later).

    Make sure you’re staring with new gloves. What your gonna do is cut up your fiberglass mat/cloth(I use mat, so that’s what I’m gonna refer to it as). So once your mat is cut up place it where you want it to go. Only do little portions at a time. Kinda like how you had to resin only half of it.

    You want to make sure that everything you want to fiberglass is set up before you add the hardener to the resin. Because as you should have learned from now once you’ve set it up you’ve got to go through with it and you don’t want to waste resin. I usually have 2-3 pieces set up to be fiberglassed and do 2 ounces of resin.

    Once you have everything set up to resin the pieces. Combine your hardener with the resin. Now a good way to start off would be to add a good amount of resin to the middle of the fiberglass. Not a crazy amount but a good dollop of resin to the middle. You let that sit for like five seconds. That’s to prevent the fiberglass mat/cloth from moving around a lot.

    I do light dabbing motions really fast all around the fiberglass mat/cloth. You don’t want to add too much resin because it could harden and become a lot heavier than originally desired. You don’t want the added weight. It will be super annoying. You can feel the difference between a lightly added and heavily added resin.

    If you don’t do enough you can always add more later. You can’t take away.

    Now you wait for this to dry. Then do it again and again until you have the whole inside done.  Only fiberglass the inside of the piece.

    Some of my Mistakes!



    Also I forgot in this tutorial that you’re gonna need a sander and sand paper.

    I was going to mention this in the next tutorial, bondo, but some people like to finish at this part. So if you want to finish the building process here you’re going to need a sander and sand paper.

    1. Sand paper(10$)

    2. Sander (30$)

    Now you don’t need a sander… but you need a sander.

    At this point you should cut off all the excess fiberglass, and sand your armor.


    Let me know if you like my tutorials or if there is anything I can improve on.

    Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/notaconspiracy

    Insta: http://instagram.com/thisisnotaconspiracy

    (via youcancosplay21)

  2. weddinginspirasi:

    Front and back view of high neck, long sleeve Grace wedding dress. (via Temperley London Spring 2012 Wedding Dresses — Ophelia Bridal Collection | Wedding Inspirasi)

  3. 1900-Da Funk - Daft Punk x Gorillaz Discovering Demon Dayz


    (Source: yellowspottedblackbull, via do-you-have-a-flag)

  4. weddinginspirasi:

    Editor’s picks: Top 3 wedding dresses from Kelly Faetanini Fall 2014 bridal collection.

    demonic-lionfish:

    milliondollarnigga:

    magnacarterholygrail:

    jayjsupremacy:

    phenomenarwhal:

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    THANK YOU GOD

    WELL THEN

    SWEET MOTHER OF FUCK MY LIFE IS SAVED HOLY SHIT ON A CRACKER FUCK ME SIDEWAYS

    (via mr-stitchez)